Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Re-Intellectualization in Scicli

Ok so the  re-intellectualization program didn't go exactly as planned and I am basically where I was about a month ago.   That being said,  I have not been totally idle.   We had visitors...

My friend came with her twins and it was terrific.   We went on a tour of  Siracusa  which is the oldest of the Greek cities in Sicily and one of the oldest Greek city-states in general.     We visited a quarry where thousands upon thousands of slaves worked, went blind (because there was no light), and died on top of one another.   Walking around in this spot was unpleasant but Sean felt it was an attractive labour cost.   (Those are his words as he is now participating directly in the blog by dictating over my shoulder)!    We saw a Greek tragedy rehearsal taking place in one of the oldest intact Greek theaters.   And apart from the historical value of touring around one of these old death pots, the kids came home and put on their own play.

We met Sean's cousins from Victoria, British Columbia in Malta.   The highspeed ferry was only twenty minutes from our villa in Pozallo and the entire trip was only ninety minutes so we couldn't pass it up.    My friend who's family is from Malta gave us an itinerary which we pretty much followed.   We checked out her Grandfather's paintings in the churches; hopped on a boat and went to Gozo and Comino; and ate at her recommended place, "Otters."   There was a historic referendum which slowed everything down on our second day.   The country was voting on whether or not it should be illegal to get divorced.   The People of Malta united in support of divorce.

We also visited some salt pans which are human enhanced depressions in the stone where salt water is pumped in and left to evaporate leaving the remaining salt for harvesting.

We came back to Scicli and all felt like we were coming home.     A highlite for all of us was the  day we went to an aromatic herb farm where the owners were cultivating   several hundred species of aromatic herbs.   After about an hour of smelling around the farm, the only one of its kind in Sicily and quite possibly Italy, we sat down to a fantastic meal.   We were expecting appetizers.   Instead, we sipped Rose out of plastic cups, and sampled some of Sicily's signature dishes.   Anchovy crostini.    Fried sage in a tempura like batter only less sweet and lighter.    Broken pieces of bucattini in a Genoa pesto.   And I can't remember what else but it was fantastic.  Oh, a peach and rose granita and a pistachio gelato at the end.   Oh, and they heard Sean would have loved a cigar and by the end of the meal, there was a brand new box of them at the table.   We finished the meal with espresso.    The kids ran around and played with the family dogs, and the family.   The adults ate for five and a half hours.





We went to a fashion show that showcased some of Ellen's swim wear.   (She makes swim suits and beach wear).   That was fun to see because there were performances by the local dance schools and Ellen's daughter was in the show.

The farmer, Orazio, who grazes his cattle on Giovanni's property invited us to lunch on the day he was making ricotta so we dipped bread into warm ricotta and drank his home made wine.

All and all, life in southern Sicily is fanfreakingtastic and I am sad to leave.